Mexico City is a giant (5th largest city in the world) and in joint with the state of Mexico (think of French regions or American states,) it is an extremely congested city with traffic for days and musty skies. Keep in mind that you are also at about 1km elevation. Start off easy (trust us).
Where to stay
While CMDX has plenty of hotels, stay in La Roma or Condesa neighborhoods for a typical (and quietly safe) hipster vibe, in Santa Maria la Ribera for Bushwick goodness, and in Polanco for a bit of posh living.
Mexico City is known for its both contemporary and colonial architecture. Stay at Condesa DF or Ignacia Guest House to see these two world’s collide. For a tad of extra color, Javier Senosian’s snake house or Pug Seal.
The beautiful place to stay is Nima Loco House, located in Colonia Roma, a neighborhood characterized by its French architecture, its cultural corridors and a wide variety of restaurants.
Your best bet is however Airbnb. Prices range anywhere from $10 and higher. This $17 per night option is super central and has a pool. But the real steal is from a host called Victor who’s building is located in the neighborhood of Santa Maria La Ribera where contemporary design meets tradition.
(close to El Kiosco Morisco, moorish kiosque, CDMX’s coolest free library La Biblioteca Vasconcelos, and the San Cosme train station).
Eating & Drinking
Unforgettable Dish Recommendations:
- Contramar ( If Micheline came to Mexico they would definitely be on the guide) – Meringue con fresa and the Tostadas de atun
- Rosetta – Tamales de elote
- Em – Bunuelo de Viento
- Fonda Margarita (Serves the Best Breakfast) – Huevos con Frijoles
- Panaderia Rosetta – Rol de Guavaba
- Rosetta – Hoja santa y cacao criollo blanco
The most important thing to be doing in Mexico City is eating and drinking, at all hours of the day.
Starting with breakfast, truly the key of all Mexican dining: stop by at Chiquitito Cafe to get a dose of good coffee, head over to Maque for a traditional breakfast (don’t forget to order a chocolate concha and huevos rancheros).
Other fantastic breakfast options include Eno, Lalo, Lardo, Ojo de Agua, and Panaderia Rosetta. These can also double as an early lunch, the distinction doesn’t really exist. From there you’re definitely hungry enough for street food: the longer the line, the better the food. Pro Advice: Indulge.
Dinner is a late affair in Mexico and if you’re in the mood to splurge, some of the world’s best restaurants like Pujol and Contramar (a must!) are quite affordable here.
But if you’re like us, a bar and taco hop is truly the way to go. Mexico City is also home to some of the world’s best bars like Licoreria Limantour and get your tacos down the street at Taqueria Alvaro Obregon. Make sure to get al pastor tacos which are emblematic of the city.
Other bars to check out include Fifty Mils, Hanky Panky, La Clandestina, and Gin Gin. Other taco shop musts include El Vilsito, a carshop by day taqueria by night and El Borrego Viudo where tacos can be delivered to your car.
More on that in Netflix’s fantastic documentary Taco Chronicles.
Handshake speakeasy Bar, dimly lit and very intimate. The menu changes seasonally.
Maximo in Roma Notre has great cocktails & a famous Raghu burger.
Celebrating something special? The 9th best restaurant in the world is located in Mexico City. Quintonil combining Mexican ingredients with Japanese techniques & even has a section of their menu dedicated to insect infused dished.
Seeing & Doing ( & Shopping)
While it is a city well-organized with public transit, using it is not recommended for first-time tourists; the local, eco-conscious pink taxis offer cheap rates and Uber is also accessible everywhere.
If your taxi driver is easy-going, you might be able to ask them to drive you by Calle Lorenzo Botturini for your first tacos (and probably the best in the city) and a commonplace rite of passage after landing
The city’s center, around El Zocalo, is the busiest part of town and one we’d suggest to stay away from. Ask your cab driver to give you a quick drive around Las Bellas Artes, the post office, San Angel de Independencia, and you’re set with the major monuments within 30 minutes. But if you’re really stuck in the center, check out Cafe de Tacuba for traditional fare and Museo del Pulque for a cultural moment. Just southeast of the historic center of the city is the Mercado de Jamaica, a unique place to begin an introduction to Mexican culture, where the smell of flowers and kaleidoscopic array of fruits is overwhelming.
If you’re a fan of architecture and design you must visit Casa Gilardi.
Mesa Rosetta, a store where you actually “window shop” because you can’t actually go inside.
Casa Bosques is a one of a kind chocolate shop, founded on the exploration of the history, methods, origins, & culture of chocolate.
Grab a a coffee at the Casa de Los Azulejos and admire the tiles ( the food isn’t amazing but the 18th century palace is worth the visit)
Originario Originario has the most beautiful decor, furniture & art, all made by Mexican artisans.
Fueguia is a sensory treat. This is a must for anyone in CDMX looking for a gorgeous store with and a unique experience. Diego was incredible, and has so much knowledge about the local medicinal plants & herbs.
Onora Casa has a curated selection of brands that value Mexican craftwork, all with a modern twist. All items in store can we shipped worldwide.
BomBoti is a general store that feels like an art exposition, worth a visit to check out all the eye candy they have in store.
Other Shops worth popping by:
One can spend a whole lifetime exploring Mexico City and never be bored of it. But for a short layover, say 12 hours, we recommend starting at the Chapultepec Castle, the only castle south of the states. This underrated museum holds much of the city’s culture and is perfect for an early morning mini-hike. From there, it’s time to meet Frida and head to her local hood, and the most authentically Mexican part of the city – Coyoacan. It’s where the real markets are and the food is incredible. Make a reservation at Casa Azul where Frida and Diego lived or the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo, which tends to be less frequented. While you’re there, pop into the Saturday San Angel art market.
Finish off your day with a trip even more south to Xochimilco where you can board one of the colorful trajineras and float above Mexico City’s an- cient irrigation system. Indulge in the food they sell. Stop off at the island of flowers, or even the island of creepy dolls (we wrote about it here).
Arrive before sunset to avoid the crowds, but the nocturnal experience is also a trip, when the mariachi boats come out.
For the design buff, make a reservation at Luis Barragan’s home studio and visit the Souyuma Museum with art spanning from Pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica to important 20th century Mexican works.
And if you’ve got an extra day, you must head to Teotihuacan sun and moon pyramids. While everyone and their mother will tell you to go early, go in the afternoon closer to 4/5pm when the sun is about to set and the pyramids are almost empty of tourists. Make sure to dine at La Gruta grotto restaurant after.
Mercado de Sonora: This market is famous for its array of herbs, potions, and traditional remedies used in spiritual practices such as curanderismo (traditional healing). You can find everything from herbs and candles to amulets and charms here.
Templo Mayor: This archaeological site in the heart of Mexico City was once the center of the Aztec universe and is believed to have strong spiritual significance. Visiting this site can provide insights into the indigenous spiritual practices of the area.
Casa de las Brujas: (House of the Witches): This boutique in the Coyoacán neighborhood offers a variety of witchcraft and mystical items, including candles, crystals, incense, and books on esoteric subjects.
Templo de Santa Muerte: The cult of Santa Muerte (Saint Death) has gained popularity in recent years, particularly among those seeking protection, luck, or justice. You can find shrines dedicated to Santa Muerte throughout Mexico City, but the main temple is located in Tepito.
Tepoztlán: While not in Mexico City itself, Tepoztlán is a nearby town known for its mystical energy and connections to ancient Mesoamerican spirituality. It’s a popular destination for those interested in alternative healing, meditation, and spiritual retreats.