It’s that time of the year again. Parisians close up shop for August to chase the last rays of summer outside la capitale, turning the city into a veritable ghost town. Tourists and locals alike are left wondering where on earth they can find an open boulangerie, where they can shop, dine, and make merry while tumbleweeds roll down the Champs-Elysées. Well fret not, friends, cause here’s the truth sauce: if you’re in-the-know on where to go in August, this city becomes a crowd-free paradise. Luckily, we did the digging for you…
Restaurants open in August
Hiding up in the 20th arrondissement on a cobblestone street that looks like it could be from postcard of a country village, is Sardagnac, an elegant, friendly restaurant with great wine and smiles all around. You can try the three course surprise menu or a la carte, but it all falls somewhere between comforting bistro food and high gastronomy – the perfect mix.
17 Rue Saint-Blaise, 20th arrondissement, 01 72 60 72 06
If you want to meet the modern-day Jane Birkins of Paris, book yourself a
table at Aux Deux Amis and find her lookalikes leaning over the Formica bar of this tiny old-school Parisian café, which looks like it’s stuck somewhere in the sixties. You’ll understand what lures the crowd here once you start sampling their very modern and minimalist twist on the freshest of Mediterranean ingredients. The menu is handwritten on the waiter’s notepad; order around five plates between two people.
45 rue Oberkampf, 11ème; +33 1 58 30 38 13; Tues-Sat, 10.30am-2am
Korean fried chicken, absinthe bubble tea and old-school hip-hop over the stereo in a sleekly designed hang-out – Hero had me at hello and remains
one of my favourite guilty pleasures in Paris. (289 rue St Denis, 2ème; quixotic- projects.com/venue/hero). It’s one of four spots in the city opened by the same restaurateur group, Quixotic Projects, which always manages to instantly attract the cool kids with quirky Parisian twists on world cuisine, amazing cocktails and out-of-the-box design concepts.
Take Candeleria, the city’s best taco joint, where after dark, through an unmarked door at the back of the room, you can enter a secret world of cocktails laced with chilli and ’50s and ’60s rock ’n’ roll.
52 rue de Saintonge, 3ème; quixotic-projects.com/venue/candelaria
For a perfect brunch, consider Treize au Jardin, located right opposite
the gates of the Jardin du Luxembourg so you could all go for a blissful Parisian stroll afterwards. Run by the wonderful American ex-pat chef, Laurel Sanderson, she mixes her North Carolina hospitality and recipes with French influence, in a pretty and romantic setting. (Treizeaujardin.com)
Bouillon Pigalle The newest spot for aspiring and actual French-It-Girls to break baguette and get their steak frites on. Bouillon is a stunner à la française and without being fussy. In fact, the very word “Bouillon,” refers to the long-gone versions of Parisian fast food spots (think: a joint even more accessible than a brasserie). The bonus: it’s très instagrammable. 22 boulevard de Clichy, 75018; + 33 01 42 59 69 31; Open daily from 12pm-12am.
Hidden in back alley graffiti haven in Belleville, Le Grand Bain is a Michelin- star worthy restaurant disguised as and priced like a dive bar, not to be missed by any serious foodies. British chef Edward Delling Williams (previously of Au Passage restaurant) has an extreme focus on culinary innovation and quality of ingredients, and you can watch the whole show through a glass window separating kitchen and restaurant. Natural wines and adventurous sharing plates keep the place buzzing every night of the week and Edward’s ex-pat crowd gathers for his British roast on Sundays.
(14 rue Denoyez, 20 ème; +33 1 85 15 23 13; open every night for dinner and Sunday for lunch; online bookings: legrandbainparis.com)
*Thee* cool vegan joint for anyone into clean, organic eats is Wild & the Moon. The ice cream bowls (made with frozen bananas) are divine – go for the Blue Magik, with a sprinkle of granola and you’re in heaven. Did we mention it’ll be open every day (Even Sunday! Egads!) in August? There’s a couple locations, but check out 55 Rue Charlot, 75003; +33 1 86 95 40 44; Open Mon-Sun, 8/9am-10pm).
Mama Shelter has a big old terrace and an ambiance that walks the line between bohemian and #design (the deco is by Phillip Stark). 109 rue de Bagnolet 75020; +33 1 43 48 48 48; Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
How this joint exists smack across from the Louvre without overflowing with tourists is a mystery to us. It’s quiet, cozy, and chic – not to mention lined with 3,000 books. Come for a meal, a writing sesh, or just a café crème. 6 Rue de l’Amiral de Coligny, 75001; +33 1 42 92 00 24. Open Tues-Sat, 11am-1am.
La Grande Cascade is the kind of spot to pop the question, spoil the parents, or just treat yo’ self. A little jewel box of a restaurant in a Napoléon-III pavilion in a massive park (le bois de boulogne), be ready to drop $100+ per person at La Grande Cascade. If you’re into bougie gastronomy, it’s worth it. Allée de Longchamps 75116; +33 1 45 27 33 51; Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Art & Exhibitions/ Culture, s’il vous plait
Outdoor Cinema on Railway Tracks La REcyclerie is bar-restaurant-farm (yes, farm) that’s put down roots in an old train station. Vines crawl down from the brightly painted interiors, and onto the rail tracks, where seven movie nights will take place. Screenings are free, but you have to reserve your “ticker” online through their website. Tip: the “P’tit Ponch” (Little Punch) cocktail is deliciously lethal. 83 Boulevard Ornano, 75018; +33 1 42 57 58 49; Visit larecyclerie.com/programmation/ for more information.
Cinéma en Plein Air de la Villette
Bring a blanket and a bottle of rosé to free movie nights in La Villette park. Expect everything from sci-fi films to artsy fartsy flicks, and (our fave) Wall-E. Shows run until August 18th. Prairie du Triangle, 211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019; +33 1 40 03 75 75. For more info & showtimes, visit lavillette.com/programmation/open-air-cinema_e395.
A Watercolour Class in a Secret Garden: Nestled at the end of tree-lined path, a garden of bellflowers, lilacs and wisteria bloom at this 19th century hôtel particulier, which once entertained the likes of Delacroix and Chopin. Today, it’s the musée de la vie romantique (Romantic Era Museum), and it’s holding a three-hour watercolour workshop beside it’s charming tea-room greenhouse on August 27th, at 2pm. The workshop is part of your €9 museum entry, all materials are provided, and all levels are welcome. Reserve you spot in advance online or by snail mail. 16 Rue Chaptal, 75009; +33 1 55 31 95 67. More info museevieromantique.paris.fr/fr/agenda/atelier-en-plein-air
The Most Instagrammable Installation the local’s locale for escaping the city without really trying, Bercy Village is over yonder in the sleepy 12th arrondissement (and adjacent to a gorgeous park, we might add!). Once home to Paris’ largest wine market in the world, we’ve already retraced its most charming nooks and crannies. But this summer, a rainbow of balloons blanket the main drag, courtesy of artist Patricia Cunha. Cour Saint-Emilion, 75012.
New Yorkers have Storm King. Parisians have the Galleria Continua. About 45 minutes into the Parisian countryside, “Continua” is a sprawling gallery (buses shuttle visitors between exhibits) that’s positioned right by a quaint river, and a bunch of dilapidated warehouses that beckon big art projects. Currently, Pouvoir & Pouvoir (Power & Power) is on display until September 22, 2019. Bring a picnic, make a day of it. 46 Rue de la Ferté Gaucher, 77169 Boissy-le-Châtel, France; +33 1 64 20 39 50; Open Wed-Sun from 12pm-6pm for guided visits. No reservation needed. Visit galleriacontinua.com for more information.
For the Kids: The Light Atelier. It’s grand, it’s gimmicky, it’s the undeniably fun Atelier des Lumières (Atelier of Lights). The space opened in 2018 in a 3,300 m² old factory, and projects breathtaking art and scenery across every inch of it with 140 video projectors and an immersive sound system – so you’re not just seeing a painting, but inside it. This summer boasts experiences like Dreamed Japan: Images of the Floating World, Van Gogh: Starry Night, and Klimt‘s Nights. Note: tickets must be purchased onlinee at atelier-lumieres.com/en/home. 38 rue Saint-Maur, 75011; +33 1 80 98 46 00; Open from 10am-6pm daily.
26 street artists have joined forces to form La Fôret Escargot (the Escargot Forest), a giant, makeshift snail covered head-to-toe in their fantastic creations. Artists upcylce scraps of PVC, styrofoam, wood, iron and more to create the dreamiest of eco-conscious, urban jungles. It’s also handicap accessible, under €5, and overlooking the canal. Place de la Bataille de Stalingrad, 75019; Open daily from 3pm-10pm, until Sept. 10th. More information laforetescargot.com.
La cité de l’architecture et de patrimoine may be a mouthful of a name, but this place is a whole lotta musée; almost every notable French cathedral facade is recreated (in near life size scale) under its roof. There museum also traces architecture into the 21st century (le Corbusier fans: there’s a walkable version of a cité radieuse apartment). The best of both worlds meet this summer, with an exhibition that places over 250 works by prestigious designers and architects amongst its grounds, from Art Deco to Bauhaus. FYI: it’s smack next door to the Modern Art Museum (Palais de Tokyo) if you want even more ~art. 1 place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016; +33 1 58 51 52 00; Open daily except Tuesdays, 11 am – 7 pm.
A Classic, Romantic Paris Museum with less crowds? The Musée d’Orsay is renowned for its collection of Degas, Gaugin, Monet, Manet, and other 19-20th century giants, this summer welcomes a luscious exhibit of works by the female impressionist Berthe Morisot. Now that’s what we call a #hotgirlsummer. We advise going on a Thursday night, when the museum is open until 9:45pm. (1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007; +33 1 40 49 48 14; Open Tues-Sun, 9:30am-6pm. More info at musee-orsay.fr/en)
On the roof of the Moulin Rouge: The Moulin Rouge’s Bar à Bulles is still one of the primest spots in Pigalle: smack next to its famous windmill. “To start, the entrance of the bar is in the Cité Véron,” says their site, “typically Montmartre-style and full of memories from the time when Boris Vian and Jacques Prévert lived there.” This summer, it’s screening a whole spectrum of enternainement, from brotastic American comedy (Superbad) to Taiwanese New Wave (The Boys from Fengkuei). 4Bis Cité Veron, 75018; +33 1 53 41 88 89; For more information visit lamachinedumoulinrouge.com/agenda/?lang=en
Cooling Off
The Molitor Pool Nothing beats an Art Deco dip in the historic piscine Molitor. Built in 1929, the bikini was first introduced at this very pool by Louis Réard in 1946. A glamorous day out for Parisians, “the Molitor” regularly hosted events such as fashion shows, galas, theatrical performances, and was used as a dazzling backdrop for film shoots. (Bonus trivia: it was a point of inspiration for Life of Pi ). We’ve retraced its €65 million facelift, but you can learn more about its history, and pool pass prices online. 13 Rue Nungesser et Coli, 75016; +33 1 56 07 08 50; more info at mltr.fr/en.
If Molitor takes you to a 1920s world apart, then le Bassin de la Villette and its Baignade plops you in the thick of today’s cool kids, with pools nestled by the banks of the the hip 19th arrondissement (where the Ourcq Canal meets the Canal Saint-Martin). The pools are free, as they’re part of the “Nager à Paris” (Swim in Paris) initiative, and can welcome up to 300 swimmers. Lockers, showers, and lounge chairs will also be provided. 27 Bassin de la Villet, Quai de la Seine, 75019; Open daily from 11am-9pm until Sept. 1st. Find more info at paris.fr/baignadevillette
This isn’t just any department store, but one of the world’s first, and played a huge role democratising fashion when it opened in 1838 (which is ironic, ’cause today it errs on the über swanky side). Today Le Bon Marché is a wonderful, air conditioned dream to get lost in. Emile Zola immortalised it in his book, Au Bonheur des Dames, and got engineering help from Mr. Gustave Eiffel himself. Pop your head in to roam its storied, and still antique premises, including a killer selection, get a nibble at the restaurant in the atrium of its Grande Epicerie, or high tea its delectable Rose Bakery (the perfect place to people watch). 24 Rue de Sèvres, 75007; +33 1 44 39 80 00; Open daily from 10am-8pm.
It’s cooler in the land of the dead, darling. 14°C, to be precise (57°F). There’s no better time to learn more about Paris’ iconic catacombs, 243 steps below ground, and in the company of its oldest residents. The museum should be relatively quieter for August and you can buy tickets online or at the entry by Denfert-Rochereau metro stop. 1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 ; +33 1 43 22 47 63; Open Tues-Sun from 10am-8:30pm. More info at catacombes.paris.fr/en
72 water jets, 2 hothouses, and 1 hot air balloon are just a few of the attractions awaiting you at Park André Citroën. Built over 14 hectares (34 acres) of an old Citroën factory, this is the only time you’ll see green space in Paris literally meet the banks of the river. There are also ping pong tables, slides, various gardens with rare plants, and we repeat: 72 water jets, and a hot air balloon ready to whisk adults and kids 150m (492ft) into the sky. 2 Rue Cauchy, 75015; +33 1 53 98 73 84; Open daily from morning to 9:30pm. More info on parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71445/Parc-Andre-Citroen.
Marin d’Eau Douce We’ve got a whole article on how to fall in love with Paris (again) by boat, but the rentable electric boats from Marin d’Eau Douce are just such a standout. You can rent one of these babies without a boating licence, fill it with up to five people for €40, or one for seven people at at €28/person. Not to mention, an extra at €7 a head gets you a little picnic basket of snack and refreshments. Bassin de la Villette, 37 quai de la Seine, 19ème; +33 09 70 71 40 60 find the details at boating-paris-marindeaudouce.com/birthda; open every day, 9.30am-10pm.
The Hot Spots, Festivals, & Workshops
A guinguette is like a kitschy beer-hall and block party combined, with the added benefit of musical performances. The “Rosa Bonheur” takes its name and spirit from 19th century French artist and feminist Marie-Rosalie Bonheur, and has adapted the guinguette for a new generation with a line up of the hippest young, progressive DJs for August. Rosa Bonheur has two locations, on a boat (see above) and perched atop a charming, chalet style pavillion in the lush Buttes de Chaumont Park (which also has a killer view of the city). 2 Avenue de la Cascade, 75019 ; +33 1 42 00 00 45; Open Wed-Sun from 12pm-12am. For more details check out: rosabonheur.fr/agenda
The French Version of Coachella? Welcome to Rock en Seine, thee music festival of August and the closest thing (next to the “We Love Green” spring festival) Paris has to Coachella – but like, Coachella circa 2009 when it was only three days, way chiller and more affordable. This year’s lineup includes The Cure, Major Lazer, Jorja Smith, and dozens of others. Daily ticket prices raging from €49-€99. Place George Clémenceau, 92210 Saint-Cloud; August 23rd-August 25th. Visit rockenseine.com for more info.
Classique au vert is a classical music festival in Paris’ stunning Parc Floral. From orchestral and instrumental, chamber to vocal, the concerts allow upcoming talents to hone their skills in a lush, natural setting. “The 8 concerts will just as much be about creating shared, emotional moments between us listeners as it is the music,” says an event representative, “while the greatest artists of today, and tomorrow, take the stage.” Route de la Pyramide, 75012; +33 1 49 57 25 50. The park is open daily from 9am-pm. Entry to concerts comes with your 2.50 € entry fee to the park, and run from August 10-Sept 1st at the “Scène Delta” stage. For more information, visit festivalsduparcfloral.paris/programmation/classique-au-vert/
Dance the Milonga! August 11th and 25th, the Saraba Association is throwing a Milonga (like the Tango) dance party in one of their sprawling, festive rooms. The gathering is for all levels and free. All entry donations will help finance the creation of a cafeteria in Warang, Senegal. 4 Avenue Denfert-Rochereau, 75014; Milonga class is held in the Oratoire – La Pouponnière room from 2pm-8pm. For questions contact bonjour@lesgrandsvoisins.org and visit lesgrandsvoisins.org/activites/agenda/.
A bit like Disneyland, but free, there’s a reason why this La Villette is not once but thrice on our roundup. For one, on any give day you could find a herd of sheep grazing by its giant silver orb. The park is that massive, and a veritable mini-city unto itself; there’s a central “halle” (think hip, local commerce), a tastefully lit canal, and follies for kids (cue: a giant dragon slide) and grown ups (wiggly suspension bridges, giant sculptures). Add inn a vibrant programme of plays, exhibitions, music (did we mention and Jean Nouvel’s Philharmonic is present?) and events, and you may never leave. 211 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019. For more information, visit en.lavillette.com.
What’s that, you’ve never heard of Pétanque? This French garden game is as classic (and easy) as they come: just toss the ball into a pit of sand, sip rosé, and repeat. Pétanque spots are dotted all around the city, but our favourites are overlooking the Canal de l’Ourcq (bordering le Bassin) and by the picturesque Pont Louis-Philippe, where the court and balls will be provided for free until September 1st. Boulodrome/Pont Louis-Philipp, 75004; +33 01 34 50 18 19; Open daily from 10am-10pm. More info on quefaire.paris.fr/26893/petanque-sur-les-rives-de-seine
