You’re probably familiar with the favourite Roman pastime of nude public bathing, but did you know that it’s an even bigger phenomenon in Japan? Getting hot and steamy is deeply rooted in Japanese culture, and public baths are still as popular as ever. The archipelago, which consists of over 6, 800 islands,
is home to over 30, 000 baths, so wherever you go you’ll be sure to find one.
Let’s start with the basics. Japanese baths are called “onsens”. Although you can find them indoors, most of them are outdoors where you can be at one with nature. The water is geothermally heated, so it’s no surprise that the name onsen literally translates to “warm spring.” Just like the Roman baths, Onsens are hot spots for socialising with friends. The different natural minerals in the water mean that they have healing properties too – they can be good for your skin, heart, immune system and more. Intrigued?
The abundance of onsens is directly related to the geography of Japan, because it’s one of the most volcanically active countries in the world– which means it has a lot of natural hot springs. It’s home to about 10% of the world’s active volcanoes and not far from the largest volcano on the planet, which lies
in the Pacific Ocean.
From the onsen culture also emerged the sentō, which aren’t hot springs because the water is heated as you would heat your bath at home, but they’re pretty much the deal otherwise. All public baths have specific rules that you have to follow, some of which may surprise you. And to make life easier, we’ve
put together a short guide so that you can steam up in peace.
THE ARTY BATHHOUSE: NAOSHIMA BATH (I ♥︎湯)
Located in the Seto inland sea, Naoshima is an island dedicated entirely to art. It’s famous for its spiritual architecture (designed by the likes of Tadao Ando) and rich artworks. Here you can find Yayoi Kusama’s famous spotty pumpkin, Monet’s Water Lilies, and a recreation of his garden. Why go to Giverny when you can go to Japan? (P.S. If you can’t get a room on the island, you can also stay in Okayama where you can easily get the train and ferry to the island).
At the heart of its community lies the Naoshima bath house designed by Japanese artist, Shinro Ohtake. Even from the outside you can see that it stands out, with the brightly coloured tiles and columns, palm trees, and neon lights. There is even a globe sticking out at the top like an antenna. Inside, there’s a retro collage on the bottom of the bath which you can get lost in, there’s a giant elephant on top of the showers, and even the toilet seats are art pieces…
(Naoshima can be reached from Okoyama, where you can take the JR Uno Line to Uno Station, then take the ferry and get to Naoshima by getting off at Miyanoura Port or Honmura Port).
THE ONSEN AT THE WORLD’S OLDEST HOTEL
Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan owns the monumental title of world’s oldest hotel – with the Guinness World Record to prove it. You can find it in a secluded valley at the bottom of the South Japanese Alps, not far from Mount Fuji. It was established in 705AD and has been passed down 52 generations and its antiquity has resulted in rumours that it’s haunted.
In the traditional Japanese inn, or roykan, you’ll find woven-straw flooring, futon beds, and decadent meals. It might be old, but that doesn’t mean that it’s lost its touch. Here, you can choose from 6 different onsens with some pretty wonderful views of the mountains– 4 outside and 2 inside. The hotel website notes that their springs specifically help gastrointestinal disorders, muscle pain, constipation, and fair skin?!
Oh, and P.S. You might want to book the karaoke room for once you’ve finished in the onsen. More info on how to get there here.
HISTORICAL ONSENS IN THE MOUNTAINS
Tucked away in the Japanese Alps, you’ll find a bygone village esteemed for its wonderful hot springs. The Shirahone Hot Springs are known for their milky waters, and legend has it that if you soak in them for three days, you won’t catch a cold for three long years. Most baths in the area are in hotels where you can pay a small fee to enter, and Awanoyu is perhaps the most well known, where there’s a large, gender mixed, outdoor spa nestled in the woods. If you feel more comfortable being in a separate women or men only bath, there are separate baths indoors too. You can make it a day trip destination, but of course you can also stay the night at one of the ryokans and try more than one. We recommend going in the warmer months as many things are closed during winter.
(The springs can be reached from Tokyo by taking the train to Matsumoto, from where you must take the Matsumoto Electric Railway to Shin-Shimashima Station, and finally the Alpico bus to Shirahone Onsen)