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Category / Off-Beat & Little Known

On a Remote Volcanic Island, American Soldiers Are Worshipped like Gods

Forget Valentine’s Day– let’s talk about John Frum Day. At this very moment, on a tiny island in the South Pacific, natives are preparing their annual rituals to welcome a mysterious messiah, expected to return on February 15th. In this remote corner of the world, every year the islanders await the return of a World…
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An Abandoned House of Books in Tunisia

I received a correspondence from Tunisia the other day, an urbex photographer from the capital city of Tunis who likes to shoot unknown and strange places in his hometown. His name is Mourad and he asked if I would be interested in an abandoned house of books he recently … okay– let’s just say he had me at “abandoned…

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Daughter Revives her Father’s Sleeping Chateau, Achieves Absolute Paradise on Earth

I‘ve just returned from a weekend in the middle of nowhere, France, staying in an 11th century chateau with better modern art and design than any major museum I’d ever reluctantly queued up for. And a peculiar thing happened when I got home after 48 blissful hours away. At 10 o’clock on a Sunday evening, I suddenly began re-decorating. In the midst of carefully re-arranging…

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The Undiscovered Rainbow Market of Madagascar

It was love at first sight when I first spotted them gently blowing in the ocean wind, the rainbow of colours and intricate textures changing as they played with the midday sun. As we floated through the village, a maze of kaleidoscopic alleyways created by walls of hanging embroidery, timid local girls peeped out curiously…

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The Living American Ghost Towns of Panama

If I’m honest, before coming to Panama, I really didn’t know much about its murky 20th century history with the Americans. In fact, I remember rather swiftly passing over the subject in history class (I went to an American high school in London). I wasn’t aware it was so recent and raw and that I’d still find…

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A Guide to Falling in Love with Old Town Panama

“I could live here”, I said like a broken record roaming the streets of Casco Viejo, Panama’s old town. It can be your Buena Vista social club, an open air gallery of street art, a time capsule of French colonial architecture or a living, crumbling museum of rich Latin American culture and history. It is the very…

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The Ghosts of Contadora Island, Panama’s Forgotten Pearl

I‘ve met Panamanians who talk about Contadora Island as if it were a relative they lost, like a favourite uncle from childhood they adored. I spoke to a Dutch ex-pat sailor who is convinced there is a curse over Panama’s Pearl islands. “There’s always something mysterious that happens to big resorts on these islands. They never last. Take that huge…

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24 Hours in Aveiro, the Candy-Colored “Venice of Portugal”

For the last leg of our little Portuguese road trip, we floated into the old port and fishing town of Aveiro, about an hour south of Porto. It’s known as the Venice of Portugal, except of course, without the Venetian price tag. The Mister and I checked into a perfect little yellow fisherman’s house along the…

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24 Hours in Portugal’s Douro Valley, Wine Country in a Time Machine

I‘d like to say we pulled into the little town of Pinhão on an old steam train, stepping out onto the 1930s station platform as the horn whistled and the mist rose. But really, our rental car was parked up outside in the station’s parking lot. Minor detail. Anyway, we’d arrived in the heart of the Douro Valley, Portugal’s wino country, ready…

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24 Hours in Porto, the Ghost Town Coming Back to Life

I‘ve just got back from a fascinating three days in North Portugal, first stop–Porto. They say it’s a ghost town in the making, where the youngest and brightest have fled and left the city to the elders, and the sorry state of many of Porto’s beautiful tiled townhouses wouldn’t convince you otherwise. But squeezed in between the…

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