Seeing and Doing
Sure, you could get to know Ghent by strolling down the canal but why not rent your own chic little boat? The city offers some very smart-looking electric motor boats for rent – no license needed!
If you prefer to stay on land, explore the historic neighbourhood of Patershol which has plenty of restaurants and shops behind colourful facades. Look out for T’Kanon, an authentic little cafe lost in time, filled with vintage bric a brac run by an eccentric owner called Nadia.
Take some time to look around the House of Alijn, a neat little museum about everyday life in 20th century Belgium. The square by the museum is ideal for a beer or a coffee stop.
Visit the marvelous Design Museum of Ghent in a beautiful old palace – with important 20th century design pieces from Le Courbusier to Memphis. A part of the museum’s collection also houses in the unrenovated portion of the art nouveau building, which makes for a fascinating contrast, as you walk over ancient creaking floorboards browsing the latest in art and design.
Discover Ghent’s cafe culture inside antique shops & thrifter’s havens. On the same street, Antiek-Depot and Moca are quirky design emporiums filled with curious and obsolete vintage objects, but they also each house charming cafes where you sit for a snack with local characters listening to old tunes after a thorough treasure hunt. Moca also hides a hair salon in the back if you’re up for an impromptu make-over!
Around the corner, you’ll find Het Tijdreisbureau where two local designers turned an antiques shop into a time travel agency (complete with a literal time machine in the middle of the shop). The shop windows are covered with bygone luggage tags and air travel offers and while you may not be successful in travelling back in time to catch those flights, you can browse the rest of the trinkets and furniture for sale inside.
Keep an eye out for the impressive street art in Ghent, especially on Werregarenstraatje, a little alley covered from top to toe in colourful artwork. Roa is a bit like Belgium’s answer to Banksy, and you’ll spot his dark murals of black-and-white animals all around town.
For your fix of medieval time travelling in Ghent, head to the monumental Gravensteen. The castle, which was built way back in 1180, was home to the former counts, and was made to show off their power and wealth.
On the stranger side of history, you can find the Museum Dr. Guislain within a psychiatric hospital. It explores the history of psychiatric care around the world through the inclusion of artefacts and artwork. It’s quite a heavy exhibition, but immensely interesting and unique.
Eating and Drinking
Discover the creative and thriving street food scene of Ghent in the 16th century Baudelo Chapel, which is now the successful Holy Food Market. Ghent is considered to be the “veggie” capital of Europe and the city even has its own official weekly «veggie day» on Thursdays, when residents collectively refrain from eating meat once a week
Café Rococo is revered by locals. It’s owned by the magical Betty, who serves her own special concoctions, including a love potion which is only served to the truly deserving. The intimate, romantic setting is only lit by candles held by antique style candelabra, and if you’re lucky, you’ll be serenaded by a friend playing the piano. You’ll feel like you’re truly having a drink in the Belle Époque.
Have tea in an imaginary artist’s atelier while you sit among the owner’s fantastical collection of fashion treasures, which include mannequins dressed in extravagant flapper clothes. Maison Elza is set on the canal, so you can also sit outside and do some people watching.
Make yourself comfortable on the old antique furniture inside a 19th century Ghent mansion belonging to Madame Eveline Roels, the artist who grew up here. At Huset, you can stop by her kitchen for a selection of cakes served on her dainty vintage china while borrowing some of her pencils to sketch the ornate salon. As a patron of the arts, Eveline often invites musicians for mini concerts in the garden. If you’re lucky, you’ll be treated to a side of opera with your afternoon tea.
Where to Stay
For the full Ghent experience, stay the night in one of the city’s architectural gems, right next to the canal in the heart of Ghent.
1898 The Post is a historic neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance, yet modern and chic hotel set in a former post office, where much of the old mailing supplies have been preserved and placed around the rooms and common areas. The monumental structure was built at the end of the 19th century to show off Belgium’s finest architecture for the 1913 World Exhibition. The ceilings and windows in the room are dizzyingly high, and the decor is moody but incredibly smart and luxurious. There’s a tiny secret bar in one of the towers that’s only open to hotel guests and works on an honesty system.
For something a little quieter and romantic, the Hotel Verhaegen is a white rococo dream with a beautiful garden hiding at the back.
The Ganda Rooms & Suites are a cozy boutique style bed & breakfast option inside a richly decorated 18th century townhouse with fireplaces in the salon and jazz playing at breakfast which is served on a long communal table.
If you’re visiting Belgium’s historic battlefields near Ypres, start at the Sanctuary Wood Museum Hill 62. This unique site was founded by a farmer who collected wartime relics, from personal items to unexploded bombs. The museum, set in his old farmhouse, feels frozen in time. Behind it, you’ll find well-preserved British WWI trenches, offering a glimpse into soldiers’ experiences.
For a deeper exploration, Carl Ooghe, a historian and guide for nearly 30 years, offers custom battlefield tours across Belgium and France, including Flanders Fields, Vimy Ridge, The Somme, and Normandy. His tours range from €75 to €95 per person per day, with optional accommodation and meals. Prices may vary by season. Here are his co-ordinates.
For a charming farmhouse stay surrounded by beautiful garden greenery, check out the beautiful b&b De Dag des Heeren.