Kyoto is an easy ride on the shikansen from Tokyo and the fastest train takes just over 2 hours.
Southern Higashiyama in the Eastern Mountains is a historical district where you can walk along old cobbled streets and get lost in its nooks and crannies. It’s filled with historical architecture, shrines and temples (including Kiyomizu-dera), buddhist statues, shops, gardens, and cafés. There are even shops
where you can rent a kimono or yukata (a summer kimono).
In the evening, wander around Gion or Miyagawacho where you can get a drink at one of the wine bars such as Oumi-e in a renovated traditional teahouse. You might catch a glimpse of a geisha heading to an appointment. However tempting it may be, try not to take any photos as it is unwelcome.
Nishiki Market, otherwise known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen” can be dated all the way back to the year 782, when locals first started selling fish in the area. The downtown market is buzzing and crammed to the brim with shops and restaurants selling local produce. The market is 400 metres long and open
from 10am to 6pm, so it’s a good place to swing by for lunch. (Nakauoyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8054)
In 2016, the Manga Museum’s collection consisted of around 300,000 pieces of Japanese comic and graphic art, including more manga volumes that could ever be read in a lifetime, woodblock prints from the 18th century, and series from all around the world. This manga heaven is set in a former
primary school and today is filled with local enthusiasts who cosy up and spend the day reading and exploring. There is a great permanent exhibition walking you through the history of manga, a “Manga Studio” where you can see an artist draw manga from start to finish, and there’s even a “Portrait Corner” where you can get an anime style portrait. Check the website for more workshops and temporary exhibitions.
(452 Kinbukicho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-0846)
Garden Highlights
Explore a secret garden in Kyoto inside the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple, which is hidden away at the far end of the beautiful and popular Arashiyama neighbourhood in Kyoto’s western hills. It features 1200 stone sculptures of rakan, the Buddha’s disciples, all with different facial expressions and poses: cute, scary, sad, serene, funny, bizarre. (2-5 Sagatoriimoto Fukatanicho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8439)
Tofukuji, a temple with both a moss and stone garden that is not crowded.
The Moss Temple / Saihoji Temple. Unlike many of Kyoto’s temple gardens that can feel overly manicured, this garden featuring luxurious moss feels natural and magical. And don’t be discouraged by a rainy day as the moss absolutely glows when saturated. Reservations can be made online or by postcard! (instructions here).
Katsura Villa and other imperial properties are also accessible as part of a group. Reservations open 4 months in advance and can be made online. The website is not particularly user friendly, but it is in English. Check the times available for the day you wish to visit and try to book an English language tour. If you can only get a Japanese language tour, there are audio guides available.
Another stunning garden that doesn’t require advanced reservations is the cultivated hillside at Okochi Sanso, the gorgeous estate of an historically significant actor. One must brave the crowds of Arashiyama to get there, but it’s worth the visit. The entrance is just a few paces beyond the famous and packed bamboo grove.
Hakone
→ Kyoto : Shinkansen (Bullet Train):
- Return to Odawara Station and take the Tokaido Shinkansen (Hikari or Kodama train) directly to Kyoto Station (The journey takes about 2–2.5 hours, depending on the train type)
Where to stay
The iconic Ace Hotel has opened a new location in Kyoto, with all the design-conscious amenities of the world-famous hospitality brand. Designed
by Kengo Kuma, the hotel for creatives is set in the old Central Telephone
Company building from the 1920s and is filled with Japanese craftsmanship.
It’s also brings a slice of New York City to Kyoto with restaurants serving
tacos and wood fired pizza and an American style coffee shop.
(245-2 Kurumayacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8185)
Utsuwa Design Hostel is a magnificent budget option. A homey hostel hides
behind the facade of the traditional townhouse, otherwise known as a machiya, with a traditional interior design to match. The hosts are very warm
and welcoming, it’s what they pride themselves on.
(8-86 Hommachi, Higashiyama-Ku, Kyoto, 605-0981)
Day trips
Kanazawa
In addition to Tokyo and Kyoto, consider one night in Kanazawa – it has incredible gardens and sights and it’s the city of artisans. Founded by the Japanese version of the Medici (the Maeda family – very distant relations!) who sponsored artisans and the arts to distract the Shogun from the fact that they were also funding a huge army. One of Japan’s top 3 gardens (Kenrokuen), lovely geisha district, numerous preserved samurai houses. The surrounding countryside is also lovely and features a number of villages that are UNESCO heritage sites and on many peoples’ bucket lists. Eat at the most delicious food stands at the Omicho Market, before touring the homes and gardens of its beautiful old Samurai neighborhood. Then on to the Noto Peninsula, which feels like the Cape Cod of Japan with its seaside tourist towns and fishing villages. Find the most perfectly serene ryokan, Yuyado Sakamoto, run by a mother and daughter who farmed their food on the land, which they then slow-cooked for days before serving it over leisurely eight-course, post-soak meals. From there, head to the mountain town of Shibu Onsen, outside of Nagano city, where the local hotels give you a robe, wooden sandals, and a special key to unlock nine different little bathhouses scattered about the town, each with its own special hot springs meant to treat different ailments.
Getting there from Kyoto:
Take the Limited Express Thunderbird from Kyoto Station to Kanazawa Station. (2 hours 10 minute, ~¥7,000 one way )
Nara Park
For a good dose of cuteness, visit Nara Park. It’s home to over 1, 000 deer who are deemed national treasures in Japan. Take note that they can get sick if you feed them certain foods, so it’s best to avoid it. And as always with animals, even though they’re very friendly, it’s always nice to give them some space. While you’re there, you can also see Todai-ji, the largest wooden building in the world with a 50 ft tall buddha inside. Perfect for a day trip from Kyoto and Osaka.
(Nara Park is a pretty direct 20 minute walk from JR Nara Station / Todai-ji:
406-1 Zoshicho, Nara, 630-8211)