San Sebastian
- Board the attractive wooden funicular railway that has been taking visitors to Mount Igueldo peak since the 1920s. Flanking the west of the bay, just don’t get there too early, it doesn’t open until 11am.
- One of the oldest attractions in San Sebastián, the Monte Igueldo Amusement Park also happens to be one of the most magical. Inaugurated in 1912, it sits on an incredible overlook, the best spot in town for breathtaking photos. The real charm, however, lies in the park’s retro – and exceptionally well-priced – rides. Be sure to take a turn on the Swiss Mountain, a vintage rollercoaster that incites heart palpitations as much for its age as for its precarious perch over the sea.
- Stroll through Mercado de la Bretxa and shop amongst locals and Michelin-starred chefs alike as you sample fresh, local products from the dozens of family-run stalls.
- Venture out to La Concha Beach itself and enjoy some well-deserved R&R on the shore or among the waves.
- The old quarter is full of spots for bar snacks and tapas. Mimo takes pinxtos tours (pintxos are the single-serve Basque dishes) from the Maria-Cristina, but the quarter is so densely packed with choice you can readily lead your own crawl. Start at Beti Jai Berria on Calle De Fermín Calbetón and making your way door-by-door towards the famous Gandarias or A Fuego Negro on Calle Del 31 De Agosto. From fried cheese croquets and oily fish bruschetta to mushroom tartlets and mini-hamburgers, the idea is simple: order one at a time with your drink or fill a plate with whatever catches your eye. Tip: Don’t pay for pintxos when you order. Eat first, then pay before you leave. You might want more.
- Three favourite restaurants: La Rampa: a Beautifully located little seafood spot for dinner / Arenales: At this tiny spot, run by Cynthia Pereira behind the bar and Santiago Torres Carrossia in the kitchen, every dish sings / Rekondo, housed in a Basque farmhouse on the outskirts of the city with views of the bay, owned by a retired bullfighter.
- Convent Garden is a true oasis right in the heart of the busy city. The picturesque social space is buzzing with good vibes and great music, and is the perfect place to wrap up your day on a high note.
- Museo de San Telmo walks you through the rich history and heritage of the Basque people.
- The Tabakalera is a former tobacco factory that has now been converted into a focal point for contemporary art and you can wander through its halls and admire the artworks. They also have a great rooftop restaurant / gastronomy lab and it’s also got a boutique hotel
- Explore Gros, the lesser-known barrio across the Zurriola bridge. This laid-back surfers’ neighborhood offers a completely different vibe than the main part of town. Head down to Zurriola Beach to catch some waves—it’s one of the best beaches in Europe for surfers, so a great spot to watch them do their thing.
- Where to stay: the elegant boutique hotel Villa Soro, the centrally located and well-priced Okako Hotel, Hotel Mendi Argia in the hills above San Sebastien and One Shot Tabakalera is centrally located inside a contemporary art museum in an old tobacco factory.
Urdaibai biosphere reserve
Between San Sebastian and Bilboa is the beautiful area of Urdaibai biosphere reserve, one of the most important wetlands in northern Spain and a stopping-off point for migratory birds. The reserve stretches from the historic town of Gernika to the Bay of Biscay. Head for Laida Beach, across the estuary from the fishing village of Mundaka, or continue around the Cape of Ogoño to the equally splendid Laga Bay. Both beaches are a 10-minute drive from the Castillo de Arteaga, an 18th-century neo-gothic castle in the nature reserve that is now an elegant hotel with 13 individually decorated rooms and a renowned restaurant.
Bilbao
- Okay so you can’t do Bilbao without doing a Pintxos bar crawl. Pintxos in case you’re unfamiliar is the Basque country’s take on tapas (finger foods piled high on bars between 7-9pm). You’ll wash it all down with small glasses of txakoli, the region’s slightly effervescent white wine. Here’s a few favourites you should try to hit:
- Café Iruña – Unchanged since 1903, don’t miss the lamb brochettes
- El Globo
- Bar Bilbao
- Restaurante Victor Montes – historic grocer turned bar & deli on Plaza Nueva.
- Stay awhile on Plaza Nueva for an evening drink with the locals.
- Nearby on Sundays, there’s the Casco Viejo flower market.
- The Casco Viejo itself (Bilbao’s old quarter) of course is full of charming streets, and plenty of quirky and independent shops.
- Check out the Dos de Mayo flea market if you’re there on the first Saturday of the month.
- On the edge of the old quarter, the La Ribera market hall of Bilbao is also a nice place to start your evening.
- Go for a wine tasting at the world’s only underwater wine cellar! The wine-tasting include pintxos and a boat trip.
- I find Bilbao’s Museum of Reproductions quite amusing –it has one of the best collections of copies of classic sculptures that can be found in Europe. A visit offers the opportunity to fully enjoy the main classical sculptural works without the hassle of a crowded museum; it is truly a unique experience.
- Sitting in the shadows of the Guggenheim, the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum is also one of the city’s best kept museum secrets – small, modest, packed with sculptures and Velazquez paintings it’s everything the Guggenheim is not.
- Ten minutes away from the city centre is the neighbourhood of Irala– a secret place in Bilbao known for its colourful houses built at the beginning of the 20th century. Somewhere between London’s Portobello road and San Francisco’s Victorian mansions, the most picturesque ones are between Zuberoa Avenue and Baiona Street.
- If it gets too hot, head out to the Arrietara-Atxabiribil Beaches: Semi-urban and located near the municipality of Sopela. A gin & tonic at one of the bars or a walk on the fine sand will make you feel new and ready to continue exploring Bilbao.
Cantabria
About an hour and a half on from Bilbao, Cantabria has an amazing coastline with beaches backed by cliffs and countryside. On your way from Bilbao, if you have time, mooch around the market in Santander. Then stop in the lovely the village of Oreña or Cóbreces, five miles away or chocolate-box-pretty Santillana del Mar, where you can visit the astounding replica of the Cave of Altamira. The seaside town of Comillas has architecture by Gaudí and great bars and beaches.
This is technically where the Basque region ends, but if you choose to continue exploring for 1-2 days, you won’t be disappointed … Villaviciosa Estuary Nature Reserve
Head for Rodiles Beach a magnificent stretch of golden sand, sheltered by pine trees, in the Villaviciosa Estuary Nature Reserve in central Asturias. There are lots of pretty seaside towns too such as Lastres. A charming little B&B nearby and a restaurant-must is Casa Marcial (casamarcial.es).Gijón
The biggest and liveliest city in Asturias, tin Gijón try some Asturian cider in one of the bars around the Plaza Mayor and explore the lanes of Cimadevilla, the old fishing quarter on a headland that divides the two main beaches, San Lorenzo and Poniente. Just outside the centre, the Atlantic Botanical Gardens (botanico.gijon.es) and the Laboral cultural complex (laboralciudaddela cultura.com) are worth exploring. Somewhere to stay.
Costa da Morte
In the easy-going Galician city of A Coruña, a granite lighthouse with World Heritage status that was built by the Romans 2,000 years ago and Picasso’s childhood home is open to visit.
The fishing village of Camariñas is the focal point of Galicia’s stretch of wild coastline with a string of magnificent unspoilt beaches. It is renowned for lacemaking – listen out for the clacking of bobbins as you walk around – and the shellfish harvested in its estuary. Stay at the Hotel Rústico Lugar do Cotariño.
Rías Baixas wine region
O Salnés is a coastal area characterised by Caribbean-style beaches, rolling hills and crinkly inlets where shellfish is cultivated. Although still largely undeveloped, the most resort-like place is Sanxenxo on the north side of the Pontevedra inlet, where hotels line the promenade either side of the marina. Some of the region’s most interesting reds are being produced by innovative winemakers in the inland Ribeira Sacra area. Specialists Northwest Iberia Wine Tours offer a short but sweet tour. Check out the fabulous A Lanzada beach and Quinta de San Amaro is a wonderful rural boutique hotel, a short drive from any number of gorgeous beaches.