They say that Oaxaca is a mystical land where anything is possible and magic persists. It is all true, but Oaxaca is also abnormally close and intimate with the dead; the idea of death, cemeteries, and the dead themselves of course.
As a result, the most interesting time to visit either Oaxaca or Chiapas is during the Day of the Dead celebrations that land on November 1st and can last for up to a month. And don’t you dare call it Halloween!
Oaxaca City
Where to Stay
Oaxaca City’s most lovely hotel is the one without a name, namely Hotel Sin Nombre. In Chiapas we’re looking a Hotel Casavieja and Casa Lum that offer easy access to the city center from their colonial facades.
Eating and Drinking
Oaxaca fare is hands down the best food of Mexico, well, at least the most traditional and authentic. This is the land of mole, tlayudas, crickets, and more.
We’re just going to leave you with a list of must-visit spots (in no particular order): Restaurante Casa Oaxaca, Pitiona, Origen, Restaurante Catedral, Lechoncito de Oro (tacos,) and Criollo.
If you’re truly a foodie, take a trip outside of town to Tlamanalli, where Abigail Mendoza makes the best soup in Oaxaca (The New York Times certified!)
Seeing and Doing
The gods of maguey would never forgive us for not telling you about mezcal – the bootlegged version of tequila which was once even banned in Mexico.
It was women who pretended to be pregnant that would bootleg the ancestral smokey drink. Unlike tequila, mezcal is cooked inside earthen pits that are lined with lava rocks and filled with wood and charcoal before being distilled in clay pots. This gives the drink it’s smokey taste. It is usually made in small batches by local families with whimsical names and labels.
Stop by at Mezcaleria In Situ to try out some of the best mezcals in town. We’re also huge fans of the Gem & Bolt mezcal brand started by two women that add damiana herb to their spirit. They often host Day of the Dead events in honor of their adoptive land.
You can never get tired of Oaxaca City. Shop around at the central market (Mercado 20 de Noviembre,) visit the most fabulous Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, Museo de los Pintores Oaxaqueños for a local art exhibit, and shop for handmade textiles, chocolate, spices, and really, EVERYTHING. Things made in Oaxaca have much higher market value because it’s the land of artisans! We suggest investing in an alebrije statue.
Discover Oaxaca’s Countryside. You’ve probably seen Hierve el Agua nonhot hotsprings on Instagram, and they’re totally worth a half day trip. Stop in every town you get a chance, eat, try everything!
Monte Alban is another nearby ruin worth visiting because it is one of the best preserved– think ballcourts, temples, palaces, etc.
For a day trip via a hassle-free hour long bus ride, Mitla is the most important city for the Zapotec underworld. It has a particular connection to death and it is a place with lots of random winds, eerie vibes, and particularly interesting ruins.
In Mexican tradition, the Day of the Dead is celebrated by making altars dedicated to those who have passed away, and in doing so, on this day they can visit their families as spirits. Many will create parties and festivals at the cemeteries. People also pain their faces to look like skeletons and dress in proper katrina attire. And while it is quite fun, it is a tradition of deep respect for those who have left life for others to continue.
Finally, one that is a bit out of the way, head to the Tehuacan-Cuicatlan Biosphere Reserve for all the cacti you could ever wish for
Into the Ancient Rainforests of Chiapas
Chiapas is a separate region from Oaxaca, but it is also often placed in the same box for being so close by. And this might be a very subjective option, but Chiapas is the natural haven-continuation North of Guatemala. Think: lots of lakes, waterfalls, hiking to ruins, and very, very green vistas.
We’ll put three stops on your list: Cascada el Aguacero and Agua Azul, Cascada el Chiflon, Misol-Ha (two impressive waterfalls,) Lago Montebello (a sort of British Columbia of lakes in Southern Mexico,) and Parque Nacional Cañón del Sumidero (a giant canyon waterway.)
For a cultural dose, visit Palenque ruins engulfed by lush greenery. On the way back you can also stop in the magical town of San Cristóbal de las Casas.
Back in the town of Chiapas, continue shopping for textiles which truly have no comparison for their high precision and artistry. Both Oaxaca and Chiapas cities are best walked and explored through the cranes, nooks, and street food.