![boats docked near seaside promenade]](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1555881400-74d7acaacd8b?fm=jpg&q=60&w=3000&ixlib=rb-4.0.3&ixid=M3wxMjA3fDB8MHxzZWFyY2h8Mnx8UG9ydG98ZW58MHx8MHx8fDA%3D)
Seeing and Doing
Take some time to simply walk around and get your bearings; Porto is a great place to wear down your shoe leather. The first thing that will fascinate you is just how many stunning abandoned buildings there are. Notice the unique contrast between traditional Portuguese architecture and tile work, and the Art Deco style that caught on from the 1920s onwards. The city is full of examples. Be prepared to do plenty of walking up and down the city’s hilly landscape to find the neighbourhoods that are flourishing. In between the abandoned façades, there are inviting doors waiting to be opened….
Head to Rua do Almada for some design hunting, a long uphill street with pop-up shops making their homes inside defunct ateliers and workshops, offering repurposed vintage furniture and fine arts and crafts. It’s where old meets new.
The Casa Almada is one of these shops in a fantastic space with design finds at very tempting prices. You’ll find yourself curious about their garden at the back which gives you a glimpse as to what lies behind the crumbling townhouse façades.
About 10 minutes away, find the equivalent of Paris’ Shakespeare & Co. Livraria Lello is known as Europe’s most beautiful bookshop, an Art Nouveau stunner with its curvaceous forked staircase and neo-Gothic woodwork and stained glass skylight.
Serralves is the modern art museum with stunning gardens
Museu Soares dos Reis, dedicated to ancient art is housed in an old palace
Located inside an old prison, right in the middle of the city, there’s a wonderful photography museum, Centro Português de Fotografia.
For travellers with a penchant for the abandoned, who also like to finish up a day of urban exploration with a big glass of wine and some good food in a trendy little bar, Porto is undeniably the city for you. Just by strolling through the city, you can easily get your fix of surreal crumbling urban infrastructure, but to really get to the nitty gritty of “Ghost Town” Porto, head down to the River Douro. You’ll find two sets of staircases on the road that runs along the river, leading you up to the remains of an abandoned village by the old train tracks. Here you’ll find one of the best, and most surreal views over riverside Porto. If you’re happy to explore this area on your own (it’s perfectly safe), you can find the staircase access here. Alternatively, if you’d rather have some Porto locals to accompany you, there’s a company called The Worst Tours. No seriously. That is what an actual tour guide company in the city of Porto named themselves. It’s the brainchild of three out-of-work architects who simply want to help tourists find the hidden history behind the city streets and have a real discussion about the city of Porto– “the big picture, good and bad: architecture, history, politics, urbanism, slow food, and hearsay.” This riverside spot happens to be one of their stops. Think of it as a more rustic stroll along New York’s high line, or Paris’ abandoned inner city railway, the Petite Ceinture with a better view.
A few favourite shops:
- Early Made – The same owners as Rosa Et Al have this concept store right next door (and a really good coffee shop with the same name)
- Coração Alecrim – A very curated selection of Portuguese brands, from homeware to shoes
- Loja – Vintage pieces and other design objects are the staple of this store
Eating and Drinking
After picking up a few vintage gems, head for an early evening drink at Café Vitória and drink wine under the string lights in their back garden. Two glasses of wine and two pints of beer come to 8 euros. Right nearby for dinner, try the Museu d’Avó.
Cozinha das Flores and the cocktail bar from the same chef: Flor
Museu d’Avó is a cosy, late night tapas restaurant in downtown Porto lit by candlelight and adequately named “Grandma’s museum” because of all the quirky objects that adorn the walls and ceiling from ceramics to bikes.
Casa de Ló was once a local shop selling traditional cakes. Today you can stop by this historic tiled townhouse for tapas, cocktails and live music in their leafy back garden.
Fava Tonka and Seiva are our top choices for vegetarian
Apego – Small, creative women-led restaurant
Euskalduna Studio for Portuguese flavors at an omakase-like counter.
Tia Tia: Dinner service is only available on Friday and Saturday evenings. Despite a heavily vegetarian-skewed menu, the restaurant isn’t strictly veggie but instead relies on finding the freshest local and seasonal ingredients to cater to its ever-changing menu. It’s the wines that shine here, though. Housed in a cool, open space that almost feels like your stylish friend’s front room, Tia Tia is an ideal spot for a relaxed evening that’s focused on tasting great wines and dishes.
Antiquum: Beautifully set in an old Manor House, once used in the Port business, this restaurant spills out into a leafy garden with views over the Douro River and received its second Michelin star this year.
Casa de Chá da Boa Nova is a Michelin star restaurant with an unforgettable tasting menu, set inside a mid-century listed landmark overlooking the ocean, 20 minute drive outside of Porto.
Elemento fine dining where everything is cooked over an open fire.
Adega São Nicolau is Portuguese dishes made super simple but with an chic ambiance
Majestic is an art deco dream and the oldest cafe in Porto
Semea for riverside dining.
O Antigo Carteiro is an unassuming restaurant away from the crowds with a passion for local produce and wines.
Dona Maria: for a stunning view of Porto’s many layers. It’s extra beautiful when the sun goes down, thanks to the giant vine leaves that light up the ceiling and inviting wine cellar.
Casa de Chá da Boa Nova: Set in a historic monument a short drive out of town, this extraordinary restaurant combines the brilliance of acclaimed architect Álvaro Siza Vieira with the talents of Chef Rui Paula. Perched on the cliff’s edge above the beach of Boa Nova, Siza Vieira has managed to incorporate the rocks in the redesign of the restaurant.
In Foz Velha, Porto: this used to be a village but now it’s a part of the city that has kept its charm. Perfect if you feel getting lost during a walk! A good reference is to start at Rua Padre Luis Cabral, go down towards the river, and explore both to the left and to the right. Several good (and somewhat expensive) restaurants can be found in this area. “Al Forno” (Italian), “Oporto” (Portuguese), “Casa de Pasto da Palmeira” (Portuguese tapas with a twist), “Museu dos Presuntos” (Portuguese tapas), “Tentações no Prato” (home-made traditional comfort food), among many others.
Mercado de Matosinhos: a typical local market located right next to the sea and in a fisherman’s area. The smell of fish, such as fresh or fried sardines, is all around. You will find a lot of restaurants in this area (both on the inside and outside of the market) that use the market’s fresh products to prepare nice, delicious meals. Located 9 km (about 5.5 miles) from Porto’s center (Trindade), you can get there by taking the metro (line A – blue), your final destination being the “Mercado” station. It takes 40 minutes for you to get there.
Where to Stay
If you want to know what those elegant townhouses in Porto look like behind closed doors and play a rich wine merchant for the night, book yourself a night at Maison des Amis. With just four guest rooms, it’s run by the bubbly daughter of a Porto couple who previously used the house as a furniture showroom. Bedrooms are huge (bigger than most apartments) and are at €110 per night. The decor is light and airy, effortlessly chic, mixing the traditional details and antique furniture in the house with sleek modern design. In the morning, your host lays out a fabulous breakfast.
For an even more affordable option you can book yourself into the House of Sandeman. With scenic views of the river, you can opt for a communal room with Port barrel-themed beds or book your own private stylish suite complete with a vintage turntable and vinyls. And did I mention wonderful
views of the river?
More options: