Seeing and Doing
Sabličevo Beach is the locals’ spot for a swim in the city.
No supermarket can replace the charm of having personal contact with the vendors and the excitement of an unpredictable purchase at the main Rijeka market – Placa.
Find an empty spot on the water along the Molo Longo promenade with twinkling views of Rijeka.
Admire the grand early-1900s hotels & villas of Opatija and Lovran. For a charming stroll, the Lungomare seafront walkway which starts in Lovran, will take you to the Austrian style town of Opatija, and all the way to the fishing village perfect for a spot of food, Volosko. The whole promenade is about 12 km long, so if you prefer not to do the whole stretch, it’s best to choose to go to one of the towns where you will also have the option to take a bus back. Stop for ice cream, a swim and a drink en route.
The opulent Viennese theatre, HNK Zajc., set in a tranquil park in front of the fountain, was inaugurated in 1885. It’s decorated with statues and ornaments by the Venetian sculptor, Augusto Benvenutti, and if you look up, you’ll find paintings on the ceiling lit up by the glowing chandelier painted by Franz Matsch, and two brothers you may have heard of, Gustav and Ernst Klimt. The Viennese trio were commissioned by the Austrian architecture firm in charge of the theatre, who in fact designed hundreds more opulent
buildings throughout Europe during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Another fun fact about the theatre is that it was the first building in the city with an electric lightbulb and telephone. Choose from a generous programme filled with musical concerts, dramas and ballet performances.
Just before Lent, the mayor of Rijeka hands over the keys to the city to the maestro of Rijeka Carnival, and that’s when the party starts. People from all over Croatia come and celebrate. The whole city becomes inundated with colours, costumes, music and joyousness. If you want to revel in more Croatian carnivals, you can find some smaller ones in Zadar and Samobor.
Peek & Poke is a fun, geeky museum with old-school computers and tech including nostalgic video games.
Visit the planetarium at the Astronomical Centre and don’t forget the spectacular views from the observatory too.
Amble down Korzo, the main street and pulse point of the city, admiring the architecture and people watching. Follow the Rjecina river promenade out of the city to what looks like the Bavarian countryside, with waterfalls, spring water, and a canyon. Rent some bikes (or simply walk) and stop to take a dip in the water. Another option is the Glina river.
Eating and Drinking
Bistro Mornar is a local nautical themed restaurant which serves hearty seafood (and meat dishes) on checkered cloth tables.
Conca D’oro is a cosy restaurant with nice pizzas.
Cukarikafe Bar is a shabby chic bar with quirky antiques and homely furnishings like crochet tablecloths and mis-matched chairs.
Grab a drink at King’s Caffe & Coffee Bar, with the cosy atmosphere you can be sure to relax, and you can smoke inside!
Where to Stay
The Melegran is an endearing boutique hotel peppered with little luxuries like an Olivetti typewriter and golden sinks.