Japan would truly take a lifetime to truly discover, but Tokyo is the best place to begin. It brims with life and is filled with cinematic gems hiding in plain sight. It’s full of smokey alleyways lit by rows of glowing lanterns in lieu of street lights and tiny bars and restaurants with space for only a handful of intriguing guests.

It goes without saying that the cuisine is almost unrivalled and it’s pretty much guaranteed that any food spot you walk into will be an adventure. The fashion is far out, the mastery of design is enviable (even the
public toilets are worth documenting). In Tokyo, the future is already here.

Japan may take a lifetime to fully explore, but Tokyo is the perfect place to start. It’s alive with hidden cinematic gems, smoky alleyways lit by lanterns, and tiny bars offering unforgettable experiences. The food is unparalleled, and every spot is an adventure. Tokyo’s fashion is bold, design is impeccable (even the public toilets are remarkable), and the future feels like it’s already here.

Seeing and Doing

TeamLab Borderless is a museum of immersive, technological experiences including an ethereal crystal room (think of it as Tokyo’s answer to Paris’s Ateliers de Lumieres). It’s filled with digital artworks that literally take you to another world. Even ordering tea is a far-out experience in the En Tea House,
where pink cherry blossoms and sunflowers bloom in your cup. It’s worth booking your tickets in advance. (Odaiba Palette Town 2F, 1-3-8 Aomi, Koto-ku, Tokyo, 135-0064)

Just west of Tokyo, in Mitaka, is a wonderland for adults and children alike. The Ghibli Museum is designed by Hayao Miyazaki himself (the co-founder of. animation studio Ghibli) as a colourful, whimsical “portal to a storybook world”. There are lots of charming little details throughout the surreal multi-story mansion, including interactive art and film exhibits and a rooftop garden. Tickets can only be booked in advance, but once you’re in you can stay as long as you want wandering the grounds.(1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka, Tokyo, 181-0013)

The Ghibli museum is right in the Inokashira Park, which is over a century old and is said to have been a gift from the Emperor to the general public. Today it’s an idyllic escape in the city, where you can sail in a little boat in a pond nestled between the powdery pink cherry blossoms which are at their peak in the springtime. It’s the perfect place for an afternoon picnic. (1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musashino, Tokyo, 180-0005)

The National Museum of Western Art, designed by Le Corbusier, embodies his sleek, modular style and béton brut aesthetic. It houses the Kojiro Matsukata Collection, spanning Italian Renaissance to French Impressionism. A wealthy shipbuilding magnate, Matsukata began collecting art in WWI-era Europe, befriending Claude Monet and acquiring works like Rodin’s Gates of Hell in Paris. His dream of a Tokyo museum faced setbacks—economic collapse, shipping costs, and a warehouse fire. Only after his death, through a France-Japan agreement, were his surviving works returned, finally realizing his vision. (7-7 Uenokoen, Taito City, Tokyo, 110-0007)

If you’re willing to venture further out, the City Flea Market is a good alternative. It’s a bit lighter on the budget and the perfect challenge for treasure hunters. Visits to the market are best reserved for sunny days, as sellers are quick to pack their bags when there is even a tiny spot of rain. (1-6-26 Katsushima,
Shinagawa City, Tokyo 140-0012)

Pigment Tokyo is like a museum, with thousands of powdered pigments on display along with hundreds of brushes and artists’ tools which you could imagine in an old Renaissance studio. Even the architecture of the shop itself is a sight to see, which is unsurprising as it was designed by the esteemed Kengo Kuma (aka the man in charge of the Japan National Stadium in Tokyo for the Olympics). The staff are very knowledgeable and known for their warmth and if you’re feeling inspired, you can join them at one of the Pigment workshops, some of which are anglophone friendly.

For chopsticks of superior quality, Nihonbo Chopstick Store is a cute shop filled with one of a kind sets (some of which are worth hundreds of dollars) and accompaniments like tiny animal rests. You can even get your set engraved in japanese or english for a personal touch. (5-3-9 Hiroo, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0012)

For a beautiful and blooming Botanical Garden visit Koishikawa, where you can see a few thousand trees and plants. The Rikugien Gardens are also a sight to see, built around 1700!

Head to the lush East Gardens of the Imperial Palace (a 10-15 minute walk from Tokyo station) with a bento box from Mitsukoshi and spend all the time you need amongst the native Japanese trees. 

Three favourite museum spaces that take you out of the overwhelming city and straight into quiet contemplation. The lobby at Sogetsu Plaza has a stone garden with water features designed by Isamu Noguchi. It’s a space for flowers. The minimalist Gallery of Horyuji Treasures, designed by Yoshio Taniguchi holds a collection of Buddhist artifacts from the 7th and 8th century, while the Kyu Asakura House (1919) is a gem of a house museum and garden in the heart of Daikanyama. 

The Nezu Museum, which is classic and has a wonderful garden that is lovely even in the rain.

AN INSIDER PEEP INTO TOKYO’S HISTORIC, SECRETIVE RED LIGHT DISTRICT

Once a seedy district in Shinjuku, Kabukicho was devastated in the 1945 Yamanote Air Raid. Post-war plans for a Kabuki theater fell through, leaving behind a thriving black market and makeshift housing. Contraband, rationed goods, and sex fueled the underground scene, with prostitutes running brothels and Yakuza meeting in intimate nomiya bars.

In 1949, the Allies shut it down, pushing illicit activities into hidden corners. Dubbed the “blue light district”, it also housed a cross-dressing community supported by the Fuki Club. Today, Kabukicho’s Blade Runner-esque nightlife has evolved, though Golden Gai, with its 200 tiny bars, remains a nostalgic slice of old Tokyo.

Golden Gai is tight-knit, with some bars selective about guests. English menus and inviting decor signal more welcoming spots. Explore the maze of alleys, climb poster-covered stairwells, and discover hidden bars, from cozy dens to surreal escapes.

Respect Golden Gai’s rules: don’t linger if others are waiting, avoid large groups (two or three max), and never take photos without permission.

Some bars also have Golden Gai “taxes”, but it’s always clearly indicated outside whether an establishment has cover charges.

We recommend exploring yourself and bar-hopping (as opposed to outstaying your welcome in one place) to find your favourites, but here’s a few
from our short list:

• Kodoji Bar is a welcoming photographer’s bar covered in old snaps of Tokyo. Meet other photographers, local and foreign and browse through photo books over a cold one (1-1-9 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 160-0021).
• Kenzo’s for its 1980s vibe with cheetah-print walls (2F, 1-1-7 Kabuki Cho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 160-0021).
• Bar Darling for its reputation as a very female-friendly bar (1-1-5 Maneki Dori, Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 160-0021).
• Kohaku if you’re looking for something a little fancier (3-4 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 162-0825).
• Zucca if you want a Halloween-theme (because themed bars are a staple here). (1-1-9 Kabukicho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 160-0021).
• Albatross, a former brothel, is one of the larger bars, over two floors plus a small rooftop area, outfitted with taxidermy and chandeliers and some very good whiskey behind the bar. (1-2-3 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku City,
  Tokyo, 160-0023).

While the Golden Gai is more of an in-the-know drinking spot rather than actual red light district today, the spirit of the tenement-style “speakeasy” is still very much there

DISCOVER THE TOKYO SUBCULTURE OF 1950S ROCKABILLY GANGS

Rock’n’roll lives on in Tokyo, thanks to the Tokyo Rockabilly Club. Every Sunday for 30 years, this slicked-back, leather-clad crew has gathered in Yoyogi Park near Meiji-Jingumae station, reviving the rebellious spirit of a bygone era. Rockabilly first hit Japan in 1955, dominating the charts and inspiring a cultural wave that resurfaced in the 1970s. The club’s style echoes both American greasers and Japan’s 1950s Kaminari zoku (“Thunder Tribe”), a once-notorious biker gang. Today, women have joined the scene, perfecting the look and attitude. Welcoming onlookers, they dance to rock’n’roll, comb their hair with precision, and keep the subculture alive.

TOKYO IS HAVING WAY MORE FUN THAN US AT FASHION

In Tokyo, street fashion has no rules—trends hold little sway, and anyone can make a statement. From Lolita to Steampunk to Ziggy Stardust reborn, the city embraces individuality. Unlike Paris or Milan, vintage culture influences Tokyo’s futuristic style more than runway trends. Dubbed “Harajuku” style, after the district that became a fashion hub in the 1980s, it thrives alongside the Shinjuku red-light district, where bold and unique looks abound.

A NIGHT WITH WINE AND RECORDS

DJ Toshiya Kawasaki, founder of Mule Musiq, opened Studio Mule in 2020—a cozy bar blending music and natural wine. Lined with hand-picked vinyl, its Brazilian marble counter glows with bottles like Le Jambon Blanc and Violette. Sip, soak in the offbeat sounds, or retreat to the “phone booth” to spin records—including fresh Mule Musiq releases—solo. (3E 16-4 Kamiyamacho, Shibuyaku City, Tokyo, 150-0047)

At The Lion Cafe, silence is golden—talking is barely a whisper. Built in 1923 and rebuilt after WWII, this meikyoku kissa (classical music café) offers an immersive experience with 1950s handcrafted wooden speakers. Vinyl and CD collections line the Baroque-style interior, with red leather seats and chandeliers frozen in time. From 3-7 PM, staff curate the selections, creating a church-like serenity where music takes center stage. (2-19-13 Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0043)

JAPAN’S FABULOUS VINTAGE SLOT MACHINES

In downtown Tokyo, pachinko parlors fill the streets—glitzy arcades packed with Japan’s flashier take on pinball. Originating in the 1920s, pachinko boomed in the 1930s, shut down during WWII, and resurged post-war, becoming a cultural staple.

Though cash gambling is illegal, pachinko operates in a gray area. Once controlled by the yakuza, prize exchanges were police-regulated in the 1990s, curbing crime but deepening ties between the industry and law enforcement, with retired officers often joining the trade.

Eating and Drinking

JIRO’S SON ALSO DREAMS OF SUSHI

Jiro Ono, the legendary sushi master from Jiro Dreams of Sushi, runs Sukiyabashi Jiro, a tiny, 10-seat Tokyo metro restaurant where even Barack Obama dined in 2014. Reservations are nearly impossible, leading to the loss of its three Michelin stars. A luxury hotel concierge may help, but expect a long wait and a hefty deposit.

For a similar (or better) experience, Jiro’s son—also featured in the documentary—runs Jiro Roppongi, serving equally masterful sushi with a friendlier touch. Expect impeccable fish, signature tangy rice, and a dress code—no casual wear or strong perfume.

(6-12-2 Roppongi, 3F Keyakizaka-dori, Minato, Tokyo, 106-0032)

Ramen Recommendations:

• Tsuta: the World’s First Michelin-starred Ramen eatery, where you can choose to eat black truffle-scented soba. (3-2-4 B1 Nishihara, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 151-0066)
• Ramen Atelier Nakiryū: another location for cheap Michelin star ramen. where the tantamen is the most vouched for dish. (2-34-4 Minami Otsuka SKY Minamiotsuka, Toshima City, Tokyo, 170-0005)
• Nonokura: specialising in sweet and salty soy sauce ramen.
  (3-11-11 Kameari, Katsushika City, Tokyo, 125-0061)
• Kikanbo: a reliable go-to for ramen with a thick, saucy broth, especially for those who like a little bit of spice. (2-10-9 Kajicho, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 101-0044)
• Soranoiro: for tasty gluten free and vegan options. (1-9-1 Ramen Street, Marunouchi, Chiyoda City, Tokyo, 100-0005).
• Mensho: for farm to bowl ramen. (1-15-9 Kasuga, Bunkyo City, Tokyo, 112-0003)
• Fukumaru: to try the highly-esteemed duck ramen. (1-9-6 Hatagaya Ritz Hatagaya 1F, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 151-0072)
• Menson Rage: for something a bit more hipster, where you can eat classic ramen surrounded by funky bric a brac. (3-37-22 Shoan, Suginami City, Tokyo, 167-0054)
• Ichiran: for a nice solo meal where you can have your own private booth. (1-22-7 Jinnan Iwamoto Bldg. B1F, Shibuya City, Tokyo 150-0041)
• Fuunji: for tsukemen (a dish where noodles are served separately and dipped into a sauce).
  (2-14-3 Hokuto Daiichi Building 1F, Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 151-0053)

FIND THE HIDDEN IZAKAYAS OF SHIBUYA

An Izakaya is Japan’s answer to a British gastro pub, a Spanish tapas bar, or an American tavern. You can seek them out near Shibuya station, at Nonbei Yokocho, which literally means “Drunkards Alley,” where you can feel a retro atmosphere of the Showa era (post war period). Tucked away in Tokyo’s busiest district, this is a good place to fuel up for the night ahead. (1-25 Sibuya, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 150-0002)

STREET FOOD STOPS

The Tsukiji Fish Market once housed the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world, where chefs would take part in auctions and pick up the freshest produce at the crack of dawn. This “inner” market closed down in 2018 and has moved to Toyosu Market. The “outer” market still remains,
however, with restaurants, shops, and mouthwatering food stalls. Arrive with a hungry stomach and do some food hopping so you can taste the famous sweet egg omelettes, corn fish cakes, grilled barbecued seafood, tuna steaks, seafood rice bowls and sweet treats like giant macarons and chewy mochi. If you want a local to guide you through the market, try this one.

Once a black market hotspot in the 1940s, Piss Alley—now called Omoide Yokocho (“Memory Lane”)—is a vibrant street food haven in Shinjuku. Lined with glowing lanterns and maple trees, its tiny dive bars and open counters create a nostalgic, cinematic feel. A favorite among businessmen unwinding after work, it’s safe, lively, and cash-only. For a classic experience, go for the yakitori.

THE ALLURING ART OF FAKE FOOD

Sampuru (from “sample”) is Japan’s art of fake food, dating back to the 1920s when wax models helped diners unfamiliar with menus. After WWII, they became essential for Western visitors. Today, restaurant windows showcase hyper-realistic plastic dishes, crafted by top artisans to attract customers. From pouring gravy to over-the-top sundaes, no dish is too complex to recreate in plastic.

Head to Tokyo’s “Kitchen Town” or Kappabashi Dogugai Street, where browsing the windows of culinary shops displaying the finest specimens of sampuru feels like wandering a pop art exhibition. You can also take a class for around $20 to make your own food samples at the tempura and lettuce–making workshop, Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya.

AN UTTERLY INSANE JAPANESE ROBOT RESTAURANT

Japan’s Robot Restaurant is a techno-fueled, neon-lit spectacle—part cyberpunk Moulin Rouge, part Cirque du Soleil on acid. For $70, expect golden kaleidoscope décor, a robot boogie band, and a 90-minute sensory overload featuring LED-covered mammoths, robo-Samurais, and a man in a horse suit playing drums. Dubbed a chaotic, kitschy tourist trap, it’s so bad it’s good—a meticulously choreographed extravaganza that leaves visitors both bewildered and entertained. (Just don’t order the food.) (1-7 Kabukichō, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 160-0021)

SPECIALTIES TO SAMPLE

In Tokyo, don’t miss okonomiyaki—a savory omelette-pancake hybrid. Typically filled with cabbage, pork belly, or prawns, its name means “grilled as you like”, with regional variations like Hiroshima’s noodle-topped version. Always beautifully presented, it’s finished with seaweed flakes, mayo, BBQ sauce, and delicate fish flakes that flutter like butterflies.

For a hearty meal, try sukiyaki, a traditional hot pot of simmered meat and vegetables. Near Tokyo Station, Sukiyaki Jyuniten serves top-quality beef, which you can select from a display. Its dark wood interior and private dining space make it ideal for a group dinner. (2-6-1 Marunouchi, Marunouchi Brick Square 3F, Chiyoda City, Tokyo, 100- 0005)

On a sunny weekend, you will often see locals queuing up to get the iconic fruit sandwiches at a little grocer called Daiwa Super. The colourful snacks are lined up inside like a mosaic, with the different shapes and vibrant hues of the fruits, cushioned in between sweet milky whipped cream, and encased
in cloudy white slices of bread. The strawberry sandwiches with the special “Amaou” variety are particularly coveted, as well as the ones filled with the delicious and enormous candy-like Kanjuku mangos. Make sure to get your fruit sandwiches early on in the day, as the shop closes once they’re out,
which can sometimes happen before lunch time. (1-13-6 Kamimeguro, Meguro City, Tokyo 153-0051)

COFFEE BREAK

A tiny, friendly café tucked away on the far side of Yoyogi park allegedly has the best Americano in the city. Designed with subtle attention to detail, worn wooden floors and counters, and touches of retro Americana, Little Nap has acquired quite the reputation for trendy travelers looking for a home away
from home. (5-65-4 Yoyogi, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 151-0053)

If you find yourself passing by the charming little shop front of Hara Donuts, try one of their unique creations, which are delicious and not too sweet, with a tasty coffee for fuel. (5-2-16 Shimomeguro, Meguro City, Tokyo 153-0064 / 4-13-15 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino, Tokyo, 180-0004)

Where to Stay

NEIGHBOURHOODS OF NOTE

If you’re AirBnB-ing, consider some of Tokyo’s quieter but increasingly hip neighbourhoods like Nakameguro and Meguro, for little stylish cafes, shops, canals, and cherry blossom sites. If it’s your first time in Tokyo, Jingumae is a great hub for young arty crowds, as well as home to the busy Shibuya nightlife district. You’ll also be close to Yoyogi Park. If you’ve already had a taste of the city, Shimokitazawa is affordable and what you might consider Tokyo’s original hipster hood. If you’ve visited Tokyo many times and are even close to calling it a second home, try the up-and-coming riverside neighbourhood of Kuramae, an area known for its rice granaries which is today full of craftspeople and ateliers, a hotbed of hip ‘made in Tokyo’ shops, trendy eateries, and hipster coffee shops. (6-12-2 Roppongi, 3F Keyakizaka-dori, Minato, Tokyo, 106-0032)

HOTELS & GUESTHOUSES

Trunk House is set in a former geisha townhouse which is nearly a century old. The tiny boutique hotel has one bedroom and was inspired by the local salons where artists and creatives used to meet. The interior is a designer’s paradise comes complete with the smallest disco in the whole of Japan and
its own karaoke machine. (3-1-34 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 162-0825)

For a similar vibe at a more affordable price, you can stay at the bigger Trunk Hotel which is a hip hotel filled with upcycled furniture and great art. (5-31 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 150-0001)

Book & Bed is a sort of bunkhouse (otherwise known as a “capsule hotel”), with sleeping nooks built into bookcases. Under forty U.S. dollars a night. (1-27-5 Kabukicho, APM Building 8th floor, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 106-0021)

Slightly out of the way is the Shiroiya Hotel, a beautiful high-end ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) with a modern twist, as it’s set in a 1970s brutalist building and filled with exquisite contemporary artworks. (2-2-15 Honmachi, Maebashi, Gunma, 371-0023)

If you’re a Sofia Coppola fan and want to trace the steps of Bill Murray (aka movie star Bob Harris) and Scarlett Johansson in her candyfloss-pink bob, spend the night at the Park Hyatt Hotel, or simply stop by for a drink – preferably a glass of whisky. (3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjukuku, Tokyo, 163-1055)

Henn na Hotel Maihama Tokyo Bay is almost totally run by robots in all kinds of shape and form. At the concierge, you will be greeted by multi-lingual velociraptors (to fit the dinosaur theme in the hotel) and an uncanny automaton. Even the fish swimming in the tank are robotic. The rooms are modest but filled with little futuristic details. It’s a little out of the way and has its imperfections, but it’s totally worth visiting for the experience, there’s nothing else like it. (5-3-20 Fujimi, Urayasu, Chiba, 279-0043)

Manga enthusiasts will enjoy spending the night at Hotel Tavinos Hamamatsucho which is filled with colourful graphics from the bedsheets and tables to the walls and carpets. It’s cheap, cheerful, and super slick. (1-13-3 Kaigan, Minato City, Tokyo, 105-0022 / 2-18-8 Asakusa, Taito City, Tokyo, 111-0032)

For a taste of luxury, K5 is full of old style glamour, housed in a former 1920s bank which has been refurbished by a Swedish design team. The mix of Japanese and Scandinavian design is a marriage made in heaven, and the rooms are spacious which can be hard to find in the capital. (3-5 Nihonbashikabutocho, Chuo City, Tokyo, 103-0026)

TOKYO’S SECRET ISLAND PARADISE

For a bucket list detour well worth it, consider Tokyo’s Secret Island Paradise called Aogashima. It’s the smallest city in Japan and famous for having a volcano inside. You can only get there via Hachijojima island where you can hop on a boat trip for a 3 hour ride, or take a helicopter which will take you 20 minutes (but costs 11,750 yen for a one way trip, so almost triple times the fee of a boat ride – do notice that a reservation is required at least one month prior). Booking accommodation is a requirement for your visit. You can camp there overnight ( the camp is currently closed due to Covid) Or stay at one of the six
inns on the island, this website lists them. Some knowledge of Japanese would be helpful for this trip as you are unlikely to find anyone who can communicate in English on the island.

(Hachijojima can be reached by taking the ferry from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier which takes about 10 hours, or by plane from Haneda Airport which takes just under 1 hour) (5-31 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo, 150-0001)