Land in Cancun, and escape Mexico’s most famous tourist trap immediately (unless you’re heading underwater to see Jason DeCaires Taylor’s underwater sculptures in the National Marine Park). Otherwise, the Yucatan Peninsula, aka the Mexican Caribbean, is perhaps the closest we get to heaven in Mexico.
Tulum: Heaven’s Capital
Where to Stay
You can easily find swanky beachfront hotels, but none like the sustainable cocoon Azulik or the supposed old mansion of Colombian drug king Pablo Escobar called Casa Malca.
But for those who prefer village-life, Tulum town is where the jungle meets Mexican benevolence. Stay at Agusto K’aax to become one with nature or yoga heaven at Holistika.
For a truly unique experience stay at one of the entirely sustainable homes in Los Arboles or rent a home in the Sian Ka’an reserve. If you’re really trying to stay exclusive, Coqui Coqui in Coba might be the most sensual hotel ever designed.
Eating and Drinking
Tulum is a glamorous place these days but you can still find a meal for all budgets. A sunset dinner in Azulik is stunning, and pricey equally to one at the Habitas private-like beachclub (while both delicious.) Head to town to Humo for exquisite Mexican cuisine in town. For lunch, go to Taqueria Honorio for the famous tacos de cochinita (it’s only open for lunch.) For midnight tacos, head over to Antojitos la Chiapaneca. You’ll get 3x more for your buck in town and many more smiles.
The town’s cocktail scene is weak to say the least, but you’ll find great drinks at the original disco in the jungle called Gitano, though, stick to beer! Corona will do the trick, chased with a shot of mezcal. Head over to Batey in town where there is live music every single day. On Saturdays it’s worth splurging on a party at Papaya Playa Project with its magical lights, musical performances and an overall Cirque du Soleil vibe. Otherwise, just go to town and you’re sure to find action.
Seeing and Doing
There are hundreds of lazure sinkholes called cenotes around the whole region. Skip the tours and head to El Gran Cenote and La Calavera (next to one another where the entrance is around $10). Take a day trip to the Sian Ka’an natural reserve where waters are like a Bounty chocolate commercial and go all the way to Punta Allen. For the extra courageous, take a boat over the lagoon to meet some crocodiles. The region is also full of lagoons and another one is Kaan Luum.
Tulum has sort of ruined the idea of a beach with plenty of people, children, dogs, beers, and towels on the sand by privatizing and manicuring it.
However, all the hotels have free access to the beach even if you are not staying there. Additionally, the public beach Playa Paraiso on the way to the ruins is actually even more blue than the hotel zone. And if you hang out long enough into the evening, you might see baby turtles hatching. Akumal Bay is known for its giant turtles, if you fancy a swim with them. For about $10, you can borrow some gear and dive with the giants.
The town itself is also full of spiritual activities, ceremonies, and all that you can imagine. Ikal offers beautiful oceanfront yoga classes everyday for a reasonable price. Many enjoy the temazcal sweat lodge experience at Botanica as well.
Additionally, you can join ocean and jungle ceremonies, cacao parties, and speak to all kinds of spirits depending on your mood. In general, it’s one of those places where if you do yoga and eat well, you’re doing just great!
Bacalar: Maldives of Mexico
The lagoon of many colors is the definition of calm. There is no better place to feel the stillness of the planet, the energy of nature, and the healing power of water than Bacalar. Snag a spot at Pucte Bacalar, bring a bottle of vino, and contemplate life. While there are plenty of water activities in the lagoon of Bacalar, those are best left for the busy tourists.
Modern & Ancient Art in Coba
The region has plenty of ruins, but the Coba ruins are subjectively the one’s worth a visit. Take a bike around town and its lagoon (but don’t forget bug repellant) and maybe even stop by for perfume and tea at Coqui Coqui. If you’re driving, stop in Francisco Uh May for exquisite artisanry.
Colonial History in Valladolid & Izamal
We are now in the Yucatan and it is perhaps one of the most Spanish-influenced regions of Mexico that closely resembles coastal Spain. It is also very traditional. Valladolid and Izamal are both picturesque, colorful towns much cheaper than Tulum. They are the more popular ones, but for example, an unknown one like Espita looks pretty much the same, minus the tourists.
Stay at Coqui Coqui in Valladolid and take a walk down the bright Calle de los Frailes. Also, make sure to visit all the cenotes because the cenotes of the Yucatan are even more impressive than those of Quintana Roo. The most picturesque is the keyhole Suytun and Cenote Zaci in town.
Hacienda Selva Maya also serves some of the favorite traditional cuisine and it is one of the most beautiful locations around.
Both the towns of Valladolid and Izamal can be visited in one day. Izamal is the yellow one. The most popular monument in Izamal is the Convento Franciscano, very much worth the trek. There are also more ruins, pyramids, but grab an ice cream and get back on the road.
Hacienda Dreams in Merida
We’d like to think of Merida as the telenovela star of this show called Mexico. It is elegant, traditional, and absolutely breathtaking.
Experience the haciendas – this is where they are plenty and in full splendor. Hell with it, stay at an hacienda! Here’s a site with plenty of haciendas with Tekik de Regil being an absolute favorite (also doubles as a great wedding or proposal venue.) These sometimes also own their own cenotes, which is
something you can do in Mexico. Essentially, what chateaus are to France, haciendas are to Mexico
The Gran Museo del Mundo Maya is a fascinating place to learn more about the culture that achieved more in their existence than modern culture has.
In general, Merida is filled to the rim with culture. Dance at Santiago on Tuesdays; Thursdays are for live music at Santa Lucia where you can experience a proper serenade; every Saturday is Noche Mexicana; and enjoy Vaqueria Night, when you’ll be able to catch a ballet and an orchestra at the Plaza Grande. Every night has an activity paired with it.
And perhaps the most special is the Orquesta Sinfonica de Yucatan with an amazing celoist. You’d never even guess, Merida is a musical gem! It’s a music festival every day of the week.
Las Coloradas: A day trip to the pink salt flats where flamingos saunter in the wild is a must, of course.
Holbox: This is the island destination where the beaches are perfect and you really shouldn’t do anything at all and let the sea and sun pamper you.
And while we barely scraped the iceberg of the peninsula, it is a region like no other. An ideal situation would be driving from Merida, down past all the magical towns and all the way to Bacalar, Chetumal and crossing over into Belize.
Holbox Island
Where to Stay
Casa Las Tortugas – chic hideaway that exemplifies Holbox’s low-key glamour. It comes with simple pleasures: a beachside location, an excellent but easy restaurant, shaded daybeds for two, a yoga studio, a spa using local ingredients, a small pool and a shop for memorable keepsakes
Punta Caliza – a family-run boutique hotel offers a cool, elegant designer alternative – with great food, airy guest rooms and a unique pool-cum-patio
CasaSandra – a stylish beach-front hotel run by an expatriate Cuban artist and is a perfect retreat from the hubbub of Yucatán’s busy beach resorts and archaeological sites.
Or try an AirBNB called Casa Paz located more towards the less-developed side of the island.
Be aware that Holbox is a tiny island that went trendy very fast, so there is an overcrowding problem in high season
Seeing and Doing
One half of the island is beautiful, wild nature preserve, the NE end, and the SW end is more houses and land and some really stunning beaches. You can walk from the town area to the end of the nature-y side (to Punto Mosquito) the whole way along a sandbar that is 100m or so out into the sea. Along the way you will see and walk with the flamingos and zillions of beautiful birds and manta rays!
Don’t miss the less-visited Punta Cocos Beach on the western tip
To the south, away from the tight cluster of hotels, are the serene mangroves and crystalline freshwater lagoons of the Yum Balam biosphere reserve. You can do a really cool kayak tour up & down the rivers that run through the nature preserve. You can also rent bikes to ride down to this end, but the jungle vibe walks are so beautiful. Whale shark spotting is a big thing from mid-May to mid-September, book to swim alongside the largest fish with a certified guide. Enjoy a day on the sea while learning the most traditional methods of fishing, on this private fishing tour. What you catch is yours to take and enjoy, + the captain will be teaching a little how to prepare a fresh ceviche. Horseback riding on the beach is alway a fun way to explore the natural landscape.
Eating and Drinking
Zapata‘s ceviche is fantastic. A hand crafted cave just right off the street with no flooring. The perfect ambiance and grilled fish dinner to start and end the first day.
Roots for the *best* lobster pizza (no reservations taken).
El Crustáceo Kascarudo – just behind the soccer pitch a couple blocks inland from Hotel Para Ti. Go for Sunday lunch and you can catch the “Sunday football” match between the locals and the visitantes.
Palapa de Victor – breakfast or lunch on the beach
Tapatia or Barba Negra for an assortment of really good tacos and live music.
Dinner on the water at Casa Las Tortugas or Las Nubes (also a good hotel option).
Grab a dinner at Luuma.
Get a table in the back garden of Casa De Asadores Martin & Santos for great grilled steak (reservations needed.
DiVino – also on the main square, amazing Italian from a guy named Giacomo who is straight from Italy when you get sick of Mexican food 😉
Le Jardin – on Calle Lisa, a couple blocks from the beach. wonderful espresso and breakfast (only open 8:30-12:30)
Hotel La Palapa has the best little tucked away bar/restaurant hovering over the beach in town
The sunsets are stunning there, and there is a really cool crowd that gathers at the curve in the beach by Hotel Zomay for sundowners and music.
Café el Mar is another awesome beach spot for drinks.
Pro Tip: Have pesos on you for your beach walks, there’s several stops to grab a refreshment. Haggle at the beach with the vendors for your boat day, especially with a group.
Use Holbox Adventure to get you to the island. This service will bring you to your chosen hotel doorstep. Then just use Holbox Shuttle’s scheduled return times.